Fat Bloke on a Bike Tour

The Outer Hebrides North to South - May 2009

Hebridean Weather

It rained and rained and rained and rained,
The average was well maintained;
And when our fields were simply bogs,
It started raining cats and dogs.
After a drought of half an hour,
There came a most refreshing shower;
And then the queerest thing of all,
A gentle rain began to fall.

Next day 'twas pretty fairly dry,
Save for a deluge from the sky.
This wetted people to the skin,
But after that the rain set in.
We wondered what's the next we'd get,
As sure as fate we got more wet.
But soon we'll have a change again,
And we shall have

  • A drop of rain

 






The only cyclist going to Stornoway. Me!
Piss wet through and i haven't even started
The Ferry had a bit of a swell on it.


Stornoway looks pretty, and the weather settled fine.
But Stornoway has a lot of social problems, so I left and headed North

Day 2


Sunday Morning - A Ruined croft near Cros.
And the wind was about Gale force 8 no exaggerating.
The Butt of Lewis Lighthouse - as far north as possible.
Its 11.00am and Time to head south.


Still on Lewis and that's the jaw bone of a blue whale with the harpoon that killed it
Rather fetching garden ornament.


Sunday nights bed at the SYHA  Black house village - Gearenish
(Bunkhouse is the building on the right)

Day 3 - The Longest Day (unintentionally)


Monday Morning 6.30 start
Hairy coo's everywhere


Callanish Standing Stones.
An amazing and very spiritual place
(it was only 7.30 , and closed but I still had a wander around)


A long and slow uphill and into a 30mph wind.

 


 


Fat Bloke  - Wild Camp on Harris


Fat Blokes legs and Tent with a view


Day 4  - Mine Host Brian Howe
The Butty Bus - Leverburgh


North Uist


North Uist Nr Clacham
Another Storm Brewing


Benbecula  - Lioncleat
Another (Welcome) kind of Storm Brewing


Day 5 The Shortest Day -  Good Morning world its a brand new hangover day


then it rained again


Tobha More


Tobha Mor - SYHA


Youth Hostel Guardian?


The Beach behind the Hostel 1


The Beach behind the Hostel 2

 


Its all done on a honesty basis - very refreshing these days


Day 6 - Peat Stacks




Rain Storm over Barra from Pol'aChara


Approaching Eriskay


Retrospective view along causeway


 Eriskay Ferry Terminal


 Eriskay Ferry Terminal


Cycle Tourers heading North
They didn't stop to chat

 


First View of Barra Beach (Airport)


Wild camp at Barra Airport

 


Scheduled Flights daily (subject to wind, weather and tides)
(Its a Twin Otter by the way)


Roughing it in a wild camping situation
Starters - Chicken and Leek Soup
Main Course  - Beef Stew and Dumplings Army Style
Desert - Fresh Fruit Salad
Cheese and Biscuits (Boursin and oatcakes)
OH, and Beer
You can see how tough it is
 


The White beach made up from crushed cockle shells


A way marked path to another deserted beach


Day 7 - The most photographed boat (and bike) on Barra 


The Atlantic Coast line of Barra and the wind is still howling


First view of Castlebay and the end is in site


A partial reward for finishing
But, wait a minute, there's another island yet.
On , On......


White Beaches on Vatersay


Memorial to the wreck of the SS Annie Jane


My Wild camp just below the Annie Jane memorial


This is the most beautiful wild camp ever
I think this camp and the first nights wild camp on Harris were my happiest moments


Huge Surf (15') from my wild camp in the dunes


Day 8 - Dawn on Vatersay. 4.45am
The Wind dropped and the sun is out


Wreck and memorial to the crew of a PBY5 Catalina


Yellow and Red is becoming my signature


Wild camp near Castlebay


I found The Lancashire Caving and Climbing club  wild camping
just around the cove from my spot.
I couldn't help but notice the pink topped canoe. Says it all really
We didn't converse.


Castlebay from The Castlebay Hotel


Castle bay at about 11.30pm (from the camp site) 


Yes, that really is a Dolphin!! There were hundreds but this is the only one
I could catch due to Shutterlag. (Ferry from Castle bay to Oban)


Its really over and my true finishing point.
I was gutted to say the least.

The Bike

Kona Cindercone 2007 No breakdowns of any kind
Schwalbe marathon Road tyres - bought
Ortlieb Panniers  - Borrowed
Carradice Saddlebag   - £3 from a charity shop
TopPeak rack  - (I paid real money for this because of disc brakes Fitting)
Pheonix Phreeranger tent  - (20 years old and performed flawlessly)
Trangia Stove  - (Just as old and still  superb)
NO Special pedals!
Rider - creaking more than the bike
Logistics:- Couldn't have been done with out the kind help from Mike and Liz Halpin
Who gave me a lift to Ullapool, and were prepared to sack their own holiday
and come for me if I had got in to trouble and encouraged me to keep going.